Atherton Tablelands

Residing in the northern section of the Great Dividing Range, the Atherton Tablelands are a departure from the moist tropical regions that make up the low-lying plains of Far North Queensland. With rich soil and a drier climate, the tablelands have a long history of agriculture spanning generations. Take a deeper look, and you’ll find a staggering array of attractions within the hillsides to sink your teeth into.

The attractions of the Atherton Tablelands cover quite a distance, so deciding where to base yourself will depend on what your interests are. The town of Yungaburra is a country charmer, with a host of facilities and accommodation types. You’ll also find a raft of privately owned nature parks and farm stays scattered through the hillsides, which can accommodate backpackers through to caravanners.

Most people haven’t heard of a tree kangaroo, but yes, they do exist. On the Atherton Tablelands, Lumholtz’s tree kangaroos live high in the rainforest canopy, making a wild sighting feel pretty special. Nerada Tea Plantation was once one of the easier places to see them, but with the tea room now closed, travellers can try public rainforest spots around Yungaburra and Malanda instead. Keep your eyes high in the trees at Curtain Fig National Park, Malanda Falls Conservation Park, or along Peterson Creek — sightings aren’t guaranteed, but this is one of the best places in Australia to try.

With so much to see and do, deciding on what appeals to you and how much time you have to invest is probably your most significant hurdle to overcome in the Atherton Tablelands, which is not a bad thing at all.

If there was but one feature to see in the Atherton Tablelands, the trio of waterfalls which make up the Waterfall Circuit could very well top the list. Via a well-signposted loop drive out of the town of Millaa Millaa, travellers who come to see these waterfalls are left with a lasting impression.

Despite their proximity, the waterfalls are quite distinct from one another, with each offering something different. However, all three waterfalls are well suited to showering under their gushing waters, so don’t miss the opportunity if the sun is shining.

Driving clockwise along the large loop trail of Theresa Creek Road, the first waterfall to feast your eyes on is Millaa Milla Falls. With permanent flowing water and a brilliant pool to immerse yourself in at its base, this is a crowd favourite. It’s also the easiest to walk to, with a large car park only moments away. Walking down to the viewing platform is a popular way to enjoy these falls, which is only bettered by swimming out to relax under its flow. If you only have time for one waterfall, Millaa Millaa is a great option.

The next waterfall you’ll come across on the loop is Zillie Falls. This powerhouse of nature is the most rugged of the three, with a raw appeal that is undeniable. The track down to the falls can be a little steep and rough, and the rocky base at the bottom is not exactly flat, but if you’re agile, the views will more than make up for the skill required to see this masterpiece. For those happy to rock hop, Zillie Falls is worth the extra scramble to sit under its falls. If you’re up to the task, don’t miss this one.

The final waterfall in this all-star lineup is Ellinjaa Falls. A short walk down to the falls via an easy, unsealed path will bring you to the base of this natural wonder. The smallest of the three but by no means the least, the intimate atmosphere of Ellinjaa Falls is near-perfect, inviting all who visit to wander into its clear waters.

Whether you’re happy to sit and admire or enter the void behind the falls, all who come to Ellinjaa Falls are left with a lasting impression — so abundant is the natural beauty of this secluded oasis.

So there you have it, three amazing waterfalls all within a short distance of each other; each entirely different and all utterly mesmerising. If you’re feeling peckish afterwards, the nearby town of Millaa Millaa has a café or two to fill you up for your next adventure.

In short, if chasing waterfalls is your thing, don’t miss this epic trio of free fun in the sun.

Part of the Crater Lakes National Park, Lake Eacham is easily the most popular crater lake in this park — and for good reason. Bringing visitors from far and wide, the crystal-clear water here is due to the lake being entirely composed of pure rainwater. As such, the ultra-refreshing water of Lake Eacham brings a smile to the faces of all who visit, with stunning turquoise colouration that needs to be seen first-hand to be fully appreciated.

This rare natural phenomenon was created long ago when molten magma heated a deep underground aquifer, which ultimately exploded under the immense pressure some 12,000 years ago. The large crater seen here today is the remnant of this colossal event.

Today, the crater is surrounded by trees once more and has become a stunning environment which, in more recent times, has been made even better for the passing traveller. Via a series of landing platforms, a pontoon and large grassy picnic areas, visitors can enjoy the crater in a wide variety of ways.

Walking clockwise around the lake for approximately 200 metres, visitors will quickly come across a small cove where a rare breed of turtle can be seen via a viewing platform. It’s well worth checking this lesser-visited section of the lake out, as the natural qualities here are superb.

Overall, if the sun is shining, be sure to add Lake Eacham to your itinerary, as there aren’t too many lakes that compare to this one for natural beauty.

Spend any amount of time in the Atherton Tablelands, and you will probably drive past the centrally located Curtain Fig Tree. With easy access via a short boardwalk, seeing this astonishing anomaly of nature couldn’t be simpler. Heritage-listed, the Curtain Tree is a Strangler Fig with a difference.

Traditionally, Strangler Figs grow in the nook of the trunk of another tree, slowly sending their roots to the forest floor below. Over hundreds of years, a Strangler Fig will continue to grow, eventually engulfing the host tree. The difference with this Strangler Fig is that the host tree fell against another during the fig’s early development, which resulted in a rare stream of roots growing into the now fascinating ‘curtain’.

Today, the Curtain Fig Tree is one of the largest trees in Queensland, with its colossal presence felt from the moment you witness this freak of nature. To give you an idea of its size, the roots drop fifteen metres to the ground with the branches of the strangler fig rising high above the canopy. Given that it’s only a short walk, seeing the Curtain Fig Tree is a worthwhile and easy option if you’re in the area.

If stunning waterfalls get your juices flowing, you’ll be well served in the Atherton Tablelands. Part nature, part man-made, Malanda Falls is a great swimming hole for all ages, with the sound of its gushing waterfall creating a pleasant experience within the grounds. Complete with elevated grassy sections to relax or perhaps even picnic on, this is a great option for those looking for some solitude or quality time with the kids.

The Malanda Falls Visitor Centre is but a short walk from the swimming hole and, given its small footprint, sure packs a punch. Filled with interactive displays that inform visitors about many of the region’s unique features, there’s something here for all ages. Visitors can learn about the geology of the area, native plant and animal species (such as the Lumholtz Tree Kangaroo), Indigenous heritage and culture, plus many other unique oddities within the region. Whether it be via interactive touch screens, video or the many information boards, it’s a well-considered display and worth spending some time here.

Finally, if you’d like to see a group of native turtles by a picturesque river, there’s a rainforest walk not to be missed. To locate it, know that Malanda Falls and the visitor centre are on one side of Malanda Atherton Road, with the loop walk situated on the opposite side of the road (look on the map for Malanda Falls Conservation Park). The walk passes through a peaceful section of rainforest, with some of Queensland’s exotic birds to be seen actively scratching through the leaves of the forest floor. This walk is worth a look if you have the time to explore further.

Observing a platypus in the wild for many Australians is high up on their wildlife to-see list, yet these curious monotremes prove to be elusive at the best of times. The good news is that the Atherton Tablelands is home to small numbers of them, with many nature parks and farm stays featuring platypus sightings as one of their draw cards.

What’s even better news is that you can see these enigmatic creatures for free. Within walking distance of the main street of the town of Yungaburra, you’ll find a trail that follows a small creek system alongside the country town. The Platypus at Peterson Creek are quite used to people and will happily motor up and down the creek in search of food, undeterred by onlookers.

The trail begins at the road bridge over Peterson Creek, which you’ll drive over as you come into the town of Yungaburra. At the small car park on the town side of the bridge, you’ll find a hide to view the platypus from. Their burrows are directly below this hide, so you’ll have a very good chance of seeing them here.

Sadly, many people get back in their car and drive away, not realising that there’s more to discover. Cross the bridge on foot, and you’ll find a track running along the banks of Peterson Creek. Down at water level is a great place to view platypus from, as you’ll be quite close to them. The walk along Peterson Creek is quite beautiful, with timber seating areas to sit quietly by known platypus hotspots.

Tip: The best times to see the platypus are a few hours after dawn or in the hours leading up to dusk. Allow yourself enough time, and you’ll be well on your way to sighting these iconic Australian animals.

Lying on the outskirts of the Atherton Tablelands is a little-known gem called Little Millstream Falls. This hidden oasis will have nature lovers gob-smacked with its natural beauty instantly apparent as you walk down to its flowing waters. The waterfall itself is a stunner with a multitude of cascading waterfalls creating an overall feast for the senses. The water then flows into a very large pool — perfect for an inflatable or simply swimming.

At the far end of the pool, you’ll find the most amazing maple tree, which graces the waterline. Complete with lusciously green vegetation at its base, the overall impact of the setting is unique and a joy to spend time in. Sit back and enjoy the natural surroundings, take a dip, whatever you like. Just keep this one to yourself.

For some, bird watching is a ‘groan’ event, not at all appealing, put bluntly, a tad boring. Having said that, we’re here to tell you that Hasties Swamp is anything but dull, with thousands of birds inhabiting the lake.

So long as the wetland has water in it (approximately May to December), you’ll find two large colonies of birds here, mainly Magpie Geese and Plumed Whistling Ducks. They’re here all day and get quite loud around dusk. With a two-storey hide to, well… hide in, you’ll escape the sun’s rays and observe many birds at the same time.

You can drive right up to the hide, making this an easy and quick attraction at the very least. As well as the prolific residents, the keen observer should be able to spot a few of the more exotic migratory natives, as there are over 220 species of birds known to frequent these waters. Short of the famed wetlands of Kakadu, the birdlife here is sure to impress all who visit.

Rounding out a sensational lineup of free things to do in the region, Mount Hypipamee National Park has many sights to see, all from the one carpark.

Mount Hypipamee’s Crater is the park’s main attraction, reached by a short rainforest walk to a viewing platform above the sheer granite walls. Formed by a massive gas explosion, this deep volcanic pipe drops to a waterweed-covered lake sitting 58 metres below the rim, with the water thought to be more than 70 metres deep. From the platform, visitors can take in the scale of the crater and possibly spot a turtle or two before continuing to nearby Dinner Falls.

From the crater, you’ll find a linking track to Dinner Falls — a sensational cascade of water complete with an inviting waterhole. The scale of the waterfalls is in perfect symphony with its bush setting, making Dinner Falls a delight to swim in or to simply admire from the shallows.

You’ll find several smaller rock pools on the trail back to the carpark, so if the waterfall is busy (as it can get), try one of these smaller pools and enjoy the tranquillity.