Kosciuszko

Note: Purchasing a New South Wales National Parks annual pass does not cover Kosciuszko National Park, so you’ll need to buy an additional pass for your stay.

Tourists from far and wide come to the ski fields of Perisher Valley and Thredbo each winter, lured by the snow and all the trappings of this buzzing skiing village. While this is undoubtedly one of the best times to visit Mount Kosciuszko, the warmer months of the year see far less traffic, with an entirely different landscape to explore.

Indeed, covering a staggering 6900 square kilometres, Kosciuszko National Park is a breathtaking wilderness of natural beauty, begging to be explored. If you have the luxury of timing your arrival either side of winter, you will be rewarded with warmer weather and snow-covered peaks, which can add that extra dimension to the overall experience. As you’ll soon see, there’s plenty to see and do in Kosciuszko National Park outside of the peak ski season that won’t cost you anything other than your park pass.

Resting at the base of the mountainous ski fields, you’ll find the major tourist town of Jindabyne, which has a raft of accommodation types and après-ski activities — all of which are usually still in operation in the off-season. You also have a range of facilities at your disposal up in the ski fields of Perisher Valley and Thredbo. With so much vacancy during the summer months, you could potentially save over fifty per cent on accommodation in the off-season. It’s also cheaper for the caravan and camping community, with lower crowds a bonus in the off-season.

The following free things to see and do illustrate that there’s plenty on offer year-round, making Kosciuszko National Park a feature-packed adventure for travellers and holiday-makers alike. For those who like nothing more than getting out into the great outdoors, there’s plenty on offer here.

At 2200 metres above sea-level, Mount Kosciuszko is the highest point in Australia, making it a bucket-list destination for many a traveller. With epic scenery to be savoured from the summit, it’s definitely worth the climb. To be sure, standing at the highest point in Australia is within reach, and while not easy, can be done by people of all ages and abilities.

The Mount Kosciuszko Summit Walk begins at the main chairlift complex of the Thredbo ski fields. You have two options to consider before you head off.

Firstly, you have the option to take the chairlift up the first (and steepest) section, which will cost a few dollars and spare your legs. The views from the chairlift are superb, particularly on the way back down.

The second (free) option is to complete the initial steep section on foot. Also departing from the chairlift complex, the Merritts Nature Track is a steady uphill climb ending at the chairlift jump-off station. The scenery along the Merritts Track is quite pretty, with a few lookouts, alpine forest and a water crossing to enjoy along the way. Having said that, most people choose to stump up the cash and take the chairlift, knowing that at the top of the lift, there’s still a 12.4-kilometre return walk to complete. If you’re used to hiking and prefer the path less travelled, the free option will add 8 kilometres to the return journey.

Whichever way you choose, a steel-grid boardwalk will greet you at the top of the chairlift. At this point, you have reached the plateau, so you can get on with taking in the sweeping views across the mountaintops. Slightly uphill, but overall reasonably flat, it’s pretty easy going until the last few hundred metres, at which point the grade steps up a gear (pictured), though not enough to cause concern. Once at the top, incomparable views out across the Main Range and beyond will have you entranced, with views as far as the eye can see in all directions. That’s the reward for being at the highest point in Australia.

Note: The walk is snowbound (closed) in winter between June and October. Call the Thredbo Information Centre on (02) 6459 4198 if planning to visit close to the winter season to check track conditions. Be sure to take adequate clothing and water as conditions can change rapidly in this alpine environment.

Truth be told, there are many amazing tracks and trails in the Kosciuszko National Park, with some epic scenery to be uncovered. The catch is, most are quite lengthy and beyond the endurance/interest level of the average traveller. Fortunately, you just can’t go past the Snow Gums Boardwalk for its short walking distance or its stunning alpine views.

Aptly named for the magnificent snow gum eucalyptus trees which surround the boardwalk, it’s an enchanting walk which, as a bonus, could have snow on it in the shoulder seasons. At 1,837 metres above sea level, the two viewing platforms here are situated where the tree line ends and the rocky alpine slopes of the remarkable Main Range begin.

The Snows Gums Boardwalk is located at Charlotte Pass, a resort and small alpine village in one. As such, you’ll find a sealed road up to this lookout, which is open to travellers in the off-season. Whether there is a covering of snow or not — the views are spectacular, with Mount Kosciuszko in plain sight.

Finally, if you happen to be here in spring, you’ll likely see a stunning display of wildflowers gracing the hillsides, adding a completely different dimension to the mountainous view.

Note: You can walk to Mt Kosciuszko from Charlotte Pass (19km return). It’s only a 390-metre ascent from start to finish via a well-formed management road, a preferred option for some. With no chairlift fees, it’s an option to consider, with grand views of the Main Range to savour along the way.

With so much countryside falling within the boundaries of the Kosciuszko National Park, seeing the best parts could take a very long time. Fortunately, there aren’t too many sealed roads throughout the park, with much of the mountainous terrain an untamed wilderness. If there were one sealed road to take through this vast region in the offseason — the Alpine Way would be it, with several attractions to encounter along its route.

The Alpine Way begins at Jindabyne, heading west before nearing the New South Wales/Victorian border, at which point it changes course, due north and to the other side of the national park. At just over 220km return, we recommend allotting the better part of a day to complete this scenic drive, as there are many stops along the way to enjoy.

Upon departure from Jindabyne and turning onto the Alpine Way, it will take a little over an hour (77km) to reach the first stop at Geehi Flats. With gorgeous alpine scenery and abundant kangaroos usually grazing on the grassy banks of the river, it’s a tremendous environment and an excellent spot for a picnic.

From the picnic area, continue beyond the adjacent Geehi Campground, either by car or on foot, to find Geehi Hut tucked away at the rear. Constructed from river stone in 1952, it is an important part of Australia’s alpine history and was originally used for livestock grazing and as a base for trout fishing. The surrounding mountain views are magnificent, so be sure to spend some time exploring the flats and nearby area.

Note: For those who enjoy putting their four-wheel drive to good use, several more historic huts and sensational alpine scenery are accessible via a network of tracks leading away from Geehi Hut. A water crossing is required, and a useful mud map is available on the information board near the hut.

Continue approximately four kilometres along the Alpine Way, and you’ll come to a clearly signposted right-hand turn-off for Olsen’s Lookout. The lookout offers exceptional views across the Main Range and is well worth the detour. The unsealed access road is winding and rough in sections, covering approximately 10 kilometres each way, with a four-wheel drive recommended.

Tip: Olsen’s Lookout is particularly rewarding on the return leg of the journey, when the warm colours of the afternoon sun illuminate the western face of the Main Range.

Another eight kilometres north along the Alpine Way will bring you to the signposted Scammells Lookout. Unlike Olsen’s Lookout, it lies only moments from the left-hand turn-off and is accessible via a sealed road all the way to the car park. The views are every bit as impressive, although a little more distant, with the changing afternoon light once again providing a completely different experience.

Continue north for a further twelve kilometres, and you’ll reach the lookout overlooking the colossal Murray 1 Power Station. From high above, it is an impressive place to pull over and appreciate the scale of this remarkable feat of engineering.

Murray 1 Power Station is currently undergoing a major upgrade, and Snowy Hydro no longer advertises public tours of either Murray 1 or the nearby Murray 2 Power Station. Continuing towards Khancoban, you’ll pass the turn-off to Murray 2, which lies at the end of Powerstation Road. The facility is not currently open to visitors, and there is no designated public viewing area.

Those wishing to learn more about the enormous Snowy Mountains Hydro-electric Scheme can instead visit the Snowy Hydro display in Khancoban or the larger Snowy Hydro Discovery Centre in Cooma. For current opening hours and visitor information, see here.

A few kilometres further along the Alpine Way, you’ll arrive in the small town of Khancoban, where several cafés, a hotel and a service station provide a convenient place to stop for refreshments or a more substantial meal.

By this stage, you will have travelled just beyond the western boundary of Kosciuszko National Park, providing a true sense of the park’s immense scale. From here, retrace your route along the Alpine Way and return to Jindabyne. Although it makes for a long day, this is a highly rewarding scenic drive with plenty to see and explore along the way.

Up in the northern section of Kosciusko National Park, Yarrangobilly Caves is an exciting destination for those who are looking for something a little bit different. While nowhere near the skiing villages (it’s a two-hour drive from Jindabyne), we couldn’t cover the national park without at least highlighting this hidden gem, and depending on your travel style, it might work for you.

As with all great cave systems in Australia, there are entry fees at Yarrangobilly, but seeing the Glory Arch is free (provided you have your national parks permit). After a short walk, the Glory Arch is staggering, with its dome-like chasm and a single mega-sized natural skylight.

Glory Arch is also the entrance to South Glory Caves — a one-way self-guided cave system. To save yourself from a return walk, if you purchase a ticket to the South Glory Caves, you won’t have to retrace your steps, as the cave exits back at the carpark. There are many cave systems at Yarrangobilly, each offering a completely different experience. South Glory Cave is the largest and one-way, slightly cheaper, and self-guided (no need to adhere to a tour time). So it would seem like a great choice, but then, other cave systems arguably have better examples of stalactites and stalagmites and come with a tour guide for only a few dollars more. In truth, all options here are great, and you can always purchase a multi-cave pass if you’re keen to see more than one.

Note: Compared to other cave systems in New South Wales, it’s significantly cheaper here — so keep this in mind if you decide to visit. For prices and more information, contact the Yarrangobilly Caves Visitor Centre.

Yarrangobilly Caves has another great freebie on offer in the form of the Yarrangobilly Thermal Pool. Visitors love these pools, which, thanks to a thermal spring, gushes out at a balmy 27ºC. Keep in mind, we said ‘gushes out’ at 27ºC, so please don’t expect the pools to be at this temperature in the middle of an alpine winter. Having said that, if it’s a mild day in the shoulder season, you’ll find the water most pleasant.

There are two pool sections, a twenty-metre pool that is about two and a half metres deep, and a shallow kids pool — complete with its very own man-made waterfall. Perhaps the most striking feature, though, would be the natural setting in which the thermal pools are set. Instead of fences, it’s magnificent gum trees in an amphitheatre-like valley, and what an atmosphere it creates.

The only real caveat to the thermal pools is the walk. While not significantly long, the management trail down to the pools is quite an incline — which is perfectly fine on the way down. By the time you return to the carpark at the end of your swim, you may just wish you could jump in the pool all over again! Overall, this is a fun attraction that not many people know about, but it’s there for all to enjoy.